‘The exceptional bravery and famous deed of Mihály Dobozi are recounted. For when he tried to carry his wife, who was seated behind him and clinging tightly to him, to a safe place, trusting in the speed of his horse, he could not escape. Before he could be captured by the enemy, he first killed his wife so that she would not fall into their hands. Then he charged into the thick of the enemy, and he too was slaughtered in the same manner.’
(Excerpt from Miklós Istvánffy, Palatine of Hungary, The History of the Hungarians)
On 29 August 1526, the Battle of Mohács was fought—one of the most devastating defeats in Hungarian history. The tragic outcome not only marked the beginning of the decline of the medieval Hungarian Kingdom but also determined the fate of the nation for centuries to come. Each year, as the anniversary approaches, we bow our heads in remembrance of the heroes who perished. Next year, in 2026, five centuries will have passed since the plain of Mohács became the stage upon which the future of the kingdom was irrevocably decided.
Commemorating this anniversary is not solely about recalling the historical event itself, but also about reflecting on how national memory preserves both the lessons of the lost battle and the heroism of its martyrs. The once-thriving settlement of Pusztamarót has long since disappeared; today, in springtime, the ground is carpeted with wild garlic, and a structure resembling a Gothic church from afar stands as a poignant reminder of the destruction wrought in the age of the Ottoman incursions. The site now lies along the route of the National Blue Trail, making it not only a locus of remembrance but also a distinguished waypoint for those who traverse the Hungarian landscape on foot.
The Historical Background of the Pusztamarót Tragedy
‘Nowhere in Hungary did our men resist the raging enemy so fiercely as in one place called Marót, not far from Esztergom. The Archbishopric of Esztergom had a pleasant retreat in that forest, which is called Vértes, surrounded everywhere by woods and thickets. A few thousand of our people, trusting in the hidden nature of the place, took refuge there with their wives and children. With these, the enemy fought more than once in bloody battle, suffering heavy losses. At last, since they could in no way capture our camp, which was fortified with wagons, they were forced to bring up cannons. In this way, they broke apart the camp and slaughtered nearly everyone. The huge heaps of corpses, which may still be seen there today, are tangible proof of the great massacre; our people, as those few who escaped report, numbered about 25,000. The number of dead and captured from this defeat—at least of those of whom we can have any knowledge—I would dare to estimate at nearly 200,000.’—excerpt from István Brodarics, The True Account of the Battle of the Hungarians with the Turks on the Field of Mohács (1527), originally written in Latin.
The Pusztamarót region is among the most significant memorial sites of Hungary and the Gerecse hills, for here occurred one of the most tragic episodes of national history: the largest organized resistance to the marauding Ottoman forces in the aftermath of Mohács. The village of Marót, situated at the foot of the Gerecse, was already known in the 12th century. Initially, the noble Maróti family of the Tardos clan possessed it. In the 14th century, it passed to the Bajóti family, who later entered royal ownership. In 1388 King Sigismund donated it to the Archdiocese of Esztergom, in whose possession it remained until the 20th century. The archbishops established a hunting lodge near the settlement at the end of the 14th century, and in the valley, they created fishponds.
Following the catastrophe at Mohács and the fall of Buda on 12 September 1526, the forces of Sultan Suleiman devastated the northern parts of Transdanubia as far as Győr. In the well-protected natural landscape of Marót, numerous refugees—including soldiers returning from the battlefield—sought safety. Joined by inhabitants from Tolna, Fejér, Esztergom and Komárom counties, they fortified the village with a wagon camp and resisted the Ottoman siege for three days.
During the assault, even one of the Ottoman commanders fell in combat. Yet ultimately, with artillery brought from Buda, the defenders’ resistance was broken on 15 September 1526. A ruthless massacre followed: according to contemporary sources, some 25,000 people were slain, and many survivors were taken into captivity.
Hungarian folklore has particularly preserved the memory of Mihály Dobozi, a minor nobleman of Fejér County. Fleeing with his wife, Nona Farnosi, his horse faltered beneath the double burden. His wife implored him to kill her rather than allow her to fall into Ottoman hands. Dobozi, with a heavy heart, fulfilled her plea and then fought to the death himself. The valley where this tragedy unfolded has since been remembered as the ‘Valley of Slaughter’ (Emberölő-völgy). The village was left desolate after the 16th-century devastation, and only in the modern era, between 1970 and 1988, was it resettled under the name Pusztamarót.
The Memorial
The Pusztamarót memorial stands upon a circular base of red limestone, divided by six spokes converging at the centre. This design evokes the ancient Eastern motif of the sun-wheel as well as the defensive wagon-camps of old. Around the circumference are arranged the symbolic elements of remembrance.
At the heart of the circle rises a central supporting pillar upon which allegorical scenes of the Pusztamarót tragedy are carved. Facing the visitor stands the consoling figure of a monk; to his left appears Mihály Dobozi, attempting to save his wife; further along, a warrior bearing the striped coat of arms of the Árpád dynasty; followed by a funeral scene, and finally, the figure of a mother saving her child.
The pillar transforms upward into the form of a tree, at its centre a flower symbolizing life renewed from sacrifice. The outer ring of pillars represents both the descendants bowing their heads before the martyrs and the branches of the life-tree itself. Upon the two rear pillars are inscribed excerpts from Károly Kisfaludy’s poem ‘Mohács’, linking the memory of the past with the conscience of the present through two arching beams resembling branches.
On the right-hand pillar appears the emblem of the Pauline monks—the equal-armed cross—who shared the fate of the fleeing people; on the left, the oak leaf, symbol of the foresters who later shaped the memorial site. The structure itself is built of Süttő limestone, a material deeply rooted in the region’s heritage.
The Surrounding Landscape
The memorial is set within a clearing of mixed woodland, a dignified natural environment befitting solemn commemoration. Trees of varying age, with occasional preserved specimens such as spruce, lend the site both continuity and character.
Facilities serving both educational and touristic purposes—including a car park and assembly area—provide for the orderly reception of visitors. Informational displays offer insights into both the natural heritage of the region and the historical events that took place there. The artistic centrepiece of the memorial serves to symbolize and interpret the age of tragedy, its causes, and above all, the heroism of its victims.
Beyond a Memorial
The Pusztamarót memorial is more than a site of remembrance for a local episode of the Ottoman wars. It stands as a national symbol of sacrifice, embodying the memory of the catastrophe of Mohács and its aftermath. Here, art and nature are united in solemn harmony, offering a space for collective mourning and reflection. By preserving the memory of Pusztamarót, Hungary not only honours its fallen ancestors but also affirms the enduring duty to remember the lessons of history—lessons that must continue to inform both the present and the future of the nation.
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