We are experiencing the effects of global warming and climate change on our own skin, quite literally. Under these altered climatic conditions, the intensity of ultraviolet (UV) radiation has demonstrably increased, making effective sun protection an essential part of preventive healthcare today. Decades of scientific research prove that the regular use of sunscreens is a safe and effective tool in preventing melanoma and other types of skin cancer. Despite this, misconceptions still linger among consumers regarding how these products actually work.
How Does Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Work?
Many people think that an SPF 50 product offers a significantly higher level of protection than an SPF 20 or 30 product. However, this approach is scientifically incorrect, as the relationship between the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and the UVB radiation it filters out is not linear. An SPF 15 sunscreen absorbs or reflects approximately 93 per cent of UVB rays, an SPF 30 filters out roughly 97 per cent, while an SPF 50 product blocks almost 98 per cent of the radiation. From a scientific perspective, therefore, the difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 in terms of the proportion of filtered rays is a mere 1 per cent. A higher factor number does not mean proportionally multiplied protective power; it only minimally reduces the amount of radiation reaching the skin.
For this reason, strict pharmaceutical regulatory authorities, such as the TGA, do not even permit the use of the term ‘sunblock’ on products, as it implies complete protection, whereas no cream is capable of stopping 100 per cent of UV radiation. What everyday language still refers to as a ‘sunblock’ is professionally known as a physical (mineral) sunscreen. While popular belief suggests that these mineral filters act purely as a physical shield reflecting the sun’s rays, in contrast to chemical filters that absorb them, modern science proves otherwise. Recent studies have shown that mineral sunscreens actually absorb the vast majority of UV radiation, just like their chemical counterparts, reflecting only a very small percentage.
Another source of misconception is interpreting the factor number purely as the amount of time one can safely spend in the sun. According to this theory, the SPF indicates how many times the time elapsed before sunburn can be extended. In reality, however, SPF is not related purely to time, but to the amount of radiation reaching the skin. The intensity of radiation, on the other hand, constantly changes: 15 minutes in the blazing midday sun, for example, can expose our skin to exactly the same amount of UV as a full hour in the early morning. Therefore, a higher SPF number is not an impenetrable shield lasting for a fixed amount of time, but a reference point. The key to our safety continues to lie in the generous application of these products and their regular reapplication every two hours due to sweating or swimming.
‘A higher SPF number is not an impenetrable shield lasting for a fixed amount of time, but a reference point’
There is, however, another type of radiation, UVA, which has a longer wavelength, allowing it to penetrate through clouds and window glass without obstruction. UVA rays do not cause immediate, visible sunburn, but they penetrate deep into the dermis of the skin, where they destroy collagen fibers—accelerating skin ageing—and indirectly damage the DNA structure of cells. Therefore, for scientifically grounded photoprotection, it is essential that the chosen product has a ‘Broad Spectrum’ rating alongside a high SPF, which is guaranteed by a circled UVA logo on European packaging and the PA++++ designation on the international market.
From High Peaks to Health Risks
The history of sun protection unfolded from the gradual layering of observational and experimental science, while the perception of sunlight’s physiological effects underwent a radical transformation. Although ancient civilizations, such as the Egyptians, already used plant extracts like rice bran or jasmine oil, the foundation of the scientific approach dates back to the early 19th century.
The birth of modern, topically applied sunscreens and the standardization of SPF are linked to the name of Swiss chemical engineer Franz Greiter. Greiter began experimenting with UV-filtering formulas after suffering a severe sunburn while climbing the Piz Buin mountain peak in 1938. As a result of his work, he developed and launched the first modern sunscreen, the Gletscher Crème (Glacier Cream) in 1946, and later named his brand Piz Buin in honour of the mountain. Nearly two decades later, in 1962, Greiter introduced the concept of SPF to provide a quantifiable answer to how much time athletes exposed to intense, high-altitude sunlight could safely spend in the sun. From today’s perspective, this historically significant first product had a minimal protection index of just SPF 2.
During this period, sunburn was still considered merely a temporary inconvenience, and a tan was seen as a symbol of vitality and health. However, the development of molecular biology and oncology revealed that ultraviolet radiation damages the DNA structure of cells both directly and indirectly. Today, the number of skin cancer cases, including melanoma and non-melanoma type tumours, is rising drastically globally. Clinical research clearly proves the cumulative nature of these harmful effects: repeated episodes of sunburn, particularly during childhood and adolescence, are associated with a substantially increased lifetime risk of melanoma and other forms of skin cancer.
Are We Poisoning Nature with What We Use to Protect Ourselves?
While the use of sunscreen is essential for preventing skin cancer, its ingredients wash into the water and poison marine and freshwater ecosystems. With the global growth of tourism, an estimated 6,000 to 14,000 tons of sunscreen wash off bathers in coral reef environments annually, posing a severe ecotoxicological risk.
The issue has sparked serious legal and scientific debates: Hawaii, for example, banned sunscreens containing the active ingredients oxybenzone and octinoxate, as these compounds have been proven to slow coral growth and exacerbate coral bleaching. According to some researchers, the localized accumulation of chemicals in certain areas damages reefs even more than climate change does. In contrast, representatives of clinical dermatology urge caution, stating that there are not yet enough large-scale studies available to definitively declare a demonstrable link between sunscreens and environmental damage.
‘According to some researchers, the localized accumulation of chemicals in certain areas damages reefs even more than climate change does’
The perception of products marketed as green alternatives is also complex. Research by a marine ecologist has highlighted that products labelled as reef-friendly or biodegradable on the market often lack specific testing on marine organisms.
Science is currently working on more sustainable technological solutions. The goal of the latest sunscreen developments is to replace traditional chemicals that are harmful to marine life with eco-friendly alternatives. Researchers are working on natural and innovative solutions such as a reef-friendly sunscreen made from camellia flower pollen, lignin microspheres derived from wood pulp, or hollow particles that reflect 98 per cent of UV light without leaving a white cast. Furthermore, generative artificial intelligence is already being used to design entirely new, eco-friendly molecules for safe skin protection.
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